Travel norms dictate that as soon as visitors leave the city centre, so do the vibes. In London terms, that means Mitcham or Neasden will feel far less desirable than Mayfair or Notting Hill. And fair enough: no one wants to be so far from the action.
Except in Bilbao. For while there is little to recommend around the city’s fringes, I’d argue the single best place to stay is in the suburban town of Getxo, seven miles north from Plaza Nueva in Bilbao’s historical centre. How come? Well, not only is Getxo [pronounced GET-zho] affluent and beautiful, it has its own terrific food scene, an A-list attraction in the form of Vizcaya Bridge, great architecture, thinner crowds and, crucially, four sandy beaches — four more than anywhere else in Bilbao. It helps that Getxo is on the estuary of the Nervión, while downtown Bilbao is arranged along that river as it snakes inland.
In short, this is the clever clogs’ base in (greater) Bilbao. Getxo largely took form in the early 20th century, as this part of Spain’s Basque Country became an iron-mining hub. Newly loaded and craving space, the richest Bilbainos soon decamped here, erecting opulent, estuary-side mansions that looked out across El Abra Bay.
Until then a fishing village, Algorta was soon subsumed as a district within Getxo. Today it’s known as the town’s best place to eat and, come dusk, nearly every pedestrian on El Abra’s promenade seems to be sauntering towards it — including me, soon after I meet the local guide SaioaMartín Ucar for a pintxos tour (three-hour walking tour from £56pp, excluding pintxos; apite.eu).
Algorta is divided, I learn, between its original southern quarter, clustered with flower-garlanded 17th-century houses, and a newer portion further uphill. Both are crammed with taverns serving pintxos, the Basque variation of tapas that usually come skewered, for a few euros apiece. Locals reliably flood here Thursday until Saturday, Martín Ucar tells me — and she is one, so she’d know.
“We tend to have a glass of wine and a pintxo in one place, then more in another, and so on,” she says. So she and I do precisely that, visiting six of her favourites.
Inside busy Itxas Bide, a tavern on Algorta’s promenade, I scarf a sublime sheep’s milk cheese croquette (Muelle Ereaga Kaia, 16). In the newer streets uphill, Ajuria turns out to be rightly famous for its moreish patatas bravas tortillas, a simple mix of eggs, potato and onion (Andrés Cortina Kalea, 2). The trendier Kantauri serves an inventive crabmeat concoction with a topping of tomato and paprika-spiced aioli (Av Basagoiti, 65); Martín Ucar spots a Bilbao food critic arriving as we leave for Unai Jatetxea, opposite, for pintxuleta, slices of steak with twiglike fries, accompanied by txakoli, the semi-sparkling Basque white wine (Av Algortako Etorbidea, 96).
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Inside the low-ceilinged Bar Arrantzale I’m also introduced to kalimotxo, a marriage of red plonk and Coca-Cola created inadvertently, so the legend goes, at a religious festival in Getxo five decades ago (arrantzale.com). “Some youngsters had left wine out all day in the sun and it got spoilt,” Martín Ucar explains. “So they tried rescuing it by adding Coke and thought, maybe because they were very drunk, ‘That’s nice.’” She laughs upon seeing my pained expression after sipping some. “Now you learn why only teenagers drink this!”
My Getxo hotel, Palacio Arriluce, is worlds more refined than kalimotxo — so much so that it elicited an involuntary “wow” when I arrived.
“It’s incredible, no?” said Iker, one of the bellhops, with typical Basque sincerity. Incredible is spot-on. Fronted by a croquet lawn, Palacio Arriluce is a honey-stone confection in a mix of medieval, neogothic and English country house styles below elaborate turrets. It was built in 1912 for one of those newly minted families. Accordingly, there are wondrous views from its rear over cascading gardens and a slender pool (and accompanying bar) down to the busy promenade, then across El Abra, its various marinas and small cruise port to the dark-green Triano Mountains.
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Things are just as visually rich inside. Previously a private home, the palace was painstakingly converted into a hotel over four years, opening its doors in October 2023. Many of the owners’ original artworks — from colourful modernist prints by Sonia Delaunay to Frantisek Kupka’s cubist lithographs — now accompany newly commissioned pieces, including vinelike sculptures mounted on one lounge’s walls. The old wood-panelled library and chapel, complete with stained-glass windows, now combine to host a memorable cocktail bar named after Kupka.
Next door is the blue-painted Delaunay restaurant, where the chef Beñat Ormaetxea reimagines traditional Spanish-Basque dishes. Six and ten-course tasting menus (£77/£116) allow diners to dive in fully, but even by going à la carte I get to relish his flavour-crammed duck ravioli and rich, deconstructed chocolate mousse (mains from £28).
There are 34 rooms in the main house, with a further 15 in a newer colonnade block, surrounded by gardens alongside the croquet pitch. Every white-walled room is equipped with an espresso machine and original artwork. Mine, one of the more desirable Marina suites, chucks in a window seat and a balcony terrace to fully capitalise on its position facing El Abra.
With penance for pintxos overload required, I get a lift from Palacio Arriluce to wild Gorrondatxe, the furthest of Getxo’s beaches, and walk a paved coast path for three miles around the estuary and back into town. Gradually a series of wooded dunes are replaced by high cliffs streaked photogenically with geological layers. Beyond the cute La Galea lighthouse, buildings begin to reappear, including a 300-year-old windmill.
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At the Nervión’s mouth on Getxo’s far side, beyond mansions almost as impressive as Palacio Arriluce, stands the Unesco-listed Vizcaya Bridge, or Puente Colgante to locals. Built in iron in 1893, it has the distinction of being the world’s oldest transporter bridge, with an interlocking frame by Alberto Palacio, an Eiffel acolyte. To cross the river passengers can ride a white gondola suspended by cables or brave the enclosed walkway on top, 45m up. I opt for the gondola, spending only 50p on the 90-second journey.
With my Bilbao travel card, a perk for every Palacio Arriluce guest, I spend even less the following day on my 25-minute metro journey into Bilbao proper. My first destination is Casco Viejo, the old town, where a grid of narrow streets has houses painted in shades of sweetcorn, apricot and strawberry. Walls stretching high above are connected by bunting, and in the central Plaza Nueva café terraces spread out from elegantly arched colonnades.
Soon, having taken the ultra-steep funicular up Monte Artxanda, I am gazing down on to Bilbao’s headline attraction: the silvery Guggenheim Museum outpost, designed by Frank Gehry in 1997 on the bank of the Nervión in curving, wavelike style. Then, half an hour later, I’m there myself, fighting through the hordes to reach its third-floor permanent collection. This includes a pop art room centred around metallic Jeff Koons tulips, and another chamber where I stare transfixed at a cheery, three-tone Rothko, until my view is wholly obscured by one of the numerous noisy group tours (£13; guggenheim-bilbao.eus).
The metro home is similarly chocka, so I treat myself to a rejuvenating session in Arriluce’s basement spa, rotating indulgently between the hydrotherapy pool, steam sauna and hammam. By 6pm I’m back exploring Getxo afresh.
There are still groups bronzing and bouncing volleyballs on Ereaga beach when I arrive. Small sunset-pink clouds appear far ahead. Live music escapes from bars and kiosks along the curving corniche, and young adults throng the steps up into Algorta. They’re simply eating pintxos, drinking, laughing and having fun in the open air. It’s a seductive local scene — and not one I’d ever have come across by staying in central Bilbao.
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Richard Mellor was a guest of Palacio Arriluce, which has B&B doubles from £337 (palacioarrilucehotel.com); Visit Getxo (getxo.eus); and Vueling, which has return flights from Gatwick to Bilbao, with three daily services from £75 (vueling.com)
Three other lovely northern Spanish beach towns
By Ellen Himmelfarb
San Vicente de la Barquera, Cantabria
Tucked tightly into an inlet at the edge of Cantabria, San Vicente de la Barquera has a small-town feel and a compact 13th-century bastion to match. Venture east from the shallow fisherman’s port and you can hike rolling hills around the fen-like Oyambre Nature Reserve all the way up to quiet Playa de Gerra. But not before exploring the open market and a lunch of mariscada (seafood stew) at Augusto, the nautical-themed family-run restaurant next door (mains from £19; restauranteaugusto.es). Stroll over the river to stay at the Nordic-style beachfront villa El Mirador de Merón.
Details One night’s self-catering for eight from £183 (elmiradordemeron.com). Fly or take the ferry to Santander
A Coruña, Galicia
Stroll the elevated beach boardwalk out to the wild promontory to track A Coruña’s history back to the ancient Greeks and Romans. Dramatic views over the rocky Atlantic belie the cosmopolitan charm of the old pedestrianised centre. Loll about in the cafés around Praza de María Pita, gazing out at ornate domes and overwrought monuments, then take your pick of museums, including the sail-shaped Domus science museum (£1.50; coruna.gal). Noa Boutique Hotel is across the ria, near the breezy cove at Lumebo beach.
Details Room-only doubles from £98 (noaboutiquehotel.com). Fly to A Coruña or take the ferry to Santander
San Sebastián, Basque County
Just over the border from the far sleepier French Basque country, San Sebastian is the region’s social hub, with its elegant promenade, soulful old town and world-class pintxo bars. And, of course, there’s La Concha beach, a swimwear catwalk. Tucked into a golden-stone street just behind is the buzzy little grill Maun (mains from £21; maun.eus), and a few minutes further along the beachfront is Lasala Plaza, with a rooftop pool overlooking the harbour.
Details Room-only doubles from £115 (lasalaplazahotel.com). Fly to San Sebastián
Have you visited Getxo? Let us know in the comments
