“Literally the last unspoilt, untouched area.” That was how King Charles, then but a prince, described Transylvania in 2015. And this central Romanian region, where the Carpathian Mountains cede to forested valleys, meadows and medieval settlements, is little changed since.
That despite the 2023 opening of an international airport outside Transylvania’s second-biggest city, Brasov, and the subsequent launch of a thrice-weekly Wizz Air service there from Luton. Those handy direct flights anchor this DIY holiday, which uses Brasov as a base and comes with car hire to enable easy exploration.
Looming above its namesake town, Bran Castle (almost certainly wrongly cited as the inspiration for Count Dracula’s base in Bram Stoker’s classic novel) may be non-negotiable — but do try to arrive well before the 9am opening time or risk a three-hour queue. The fortress is frequently cited as the inspiration for Count Dracula’s base in Bram Stoker’s classic horror novel. A million visitors are reckoned to come each year. Inside, all is actually underwhelming, apart from a worryingly comprehensive exhibition of torture instruments (£12; bran-castle.com).
Luckily Transylvania has numerous other seductions, not least of which is its general vibe. In every village houses are painted in cheerful pastel shades, orchards seem to overflow with fruit, and families pile on to horse-pulled carts like it’s 1899. Early summer then sees rich banks of wildflowers accompany neat hay bales in meadows, and the seasonal reopening of the Transfagarasan highway (or, more prosaically, DN7C). Previously called “the greatest road in the world” by one Jeremy Clarkson, this is a marble chute-like wiggler which offers epic views as it hairpins up to Balea Lake — do be prepared for traffic, though.
The season also spurs activity. Hikers might follow a portion of the just-launched Via Transilvanica long-distance trail, or cross and recross the Varghis Gorges river on wobbly wooden bridges bound for bat-filled caves. Brasov has an equestrian centre, while guides drive animal lovers into the mountains in search of brown bears (half-day tour from £54, viator.com).
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Brasov enchants. Spreading out from a neoclassical main square, Piata Sfatului, its cobbled streets and colourful baroque buildings are best admired from the hilltop White Tower’s viewing platform (free). You’ll find numerous excellent restaurants, all of them serving immense portions of hearty Transylvanian fare such as grilled sausages, stews or sarmale (cabbage rolls)at low prices. Try, somehow, to leave room for some papanasi, a fried cheese pastry slathered in sour cream and cherry or berry jam.
Your suggested self-catering base is a chic old town apartment four minutes’ walk from Piata Sfatului. One of several options inside the Richter Residence, restored interwar building, it comes with chunky beams above white walls and flashes of teal, a spacious walk-in shower, an espresso machine and a satellite TV. Maybe Dracula will be on?
What you get for your £364pp
• Return Luton-Brasov flights, departing on June 26
• 10kg hold luggage per person
• Seven days’ car hire from Brasov airport
• Seven nights’ self-catering for two at the Richter Residence
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The £700 holiday
The King has long been smitten with Transylvania and before ascending the throne he spent years overseeing the restoration of some 17th-century dwellings amid a remote hamlet in the hilly Zalan valley. The result is today’s seven-bedroom Prince of Wales’s Guesthouse, a rustic property filled with local fabrics. Meals typical of the local area reflecting local ethnic groups are served daily, and guests can book riding trips or use the hot tub when not just lounging around in hammocks.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £413pp. Flights from £234. Seven days’ car hire from £61pp
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The £1,300 holiday
Having lorded over these lands for eight centuries, the Bethlen family have recently turned their Transylvanian domain into a luxurious escape with a large heated pool. Bethlen Estate guests stay in nattily designed cottages and can enjoy grilled river trout and blackberry cake in the barn restaurant, while sipping surprisingly good local wines. Lots of leisurely pursuits — from birdwatching to cycling tours and sheep-herding — are available to help you to make the most of the beautiful wilderness all around.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £1,102pp. Flights from £234. Seven days’ car hire from £69pp
